Bespoke: details that make the difference

Bespoke: details that make the difference


On this site, we often profess our unreasonable (and unreasoned as far as I am concerned) love of bespoke suits. Indeed, I believe I can rightfully attest that any gent who goes through the door of a bespoke salon is definitely bound to desert the “ready-to-wear nation”.

After tasting the unspoken pleasure of a unique suit created for you-- with you -- by a master tailor, going back to RTW is virtually impossible. Soon after will arise a pressing desire to assemble, as quickly as possible (“possible” being the operative word given the investment it requires) a collection of 5 or 6 suits in order (if I may say so) not to ever step out again in a ready-to-wear garment.

That said, service in bespoke houses is most often exceptional enough to redefine the rather trivial concept of “customer service” by propelling it to a level that I, for one, have never experienced elsewhere, even for much more expensive purchases (such as a vehicle or jewellery).

For instance, well-established bespoke houses will ensure the yearlong maintenance of the suit by a tailor: a bit of steaming here, a new lining there, a slight adjustment to accommodate a change in silhouette (7 cm of fabric are left inside the suit: it is the “pattern fullness” that provides for any adjustment during the life cycle of the garment), adding a few underarm pieces to prevent wear caused by perspiration, etc…

My personal ambition – a bit far fetched, I admit- is to bequeath my suits to my son (as we happen to have approximately the same silouhette), a bit like our British neighbors for whom passing down such heirlooms is not unusual.

I once wrote on this blog that working with a master tailor on a suit is a truly heuristic process during which you will slowly “invent” (literaly) together a few entirely exclusive details to add comfort or panache to your garment.

To illustrate my point, here are 2 photos included in the Special Bespoke feature story published in the last edition of Dandy Magazine, in which I contributed.

The details are part of the “magic” of bespoke suits and are typically not available in ready-to-wear.

Gorgeous centre sliding tab on a pair of trousers with very deep traditional pleat (Arnys Bespoke).

Breathtaking hem with imitation slit and embroidered arrow (Cifonelli Bespoke).

In bespoke as in life in general, it is definitely the details that make all the difference…

Cheers, HUGO

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